teach a girl to fish

I Dream of Jiro: Review of “Jiro Dreams of Sushi”

For better or worse, I’ve become known to my friends as the “fish girl”. Friends email me whenever a great new fish restaurant opens up or when an article about salmon appears in the news. So it came as no surprise that my inbox was buzzing with word about this new fish film, Jiro Dreams of Sushi. A good friend popped a dvd screener in the mail to me and I sat down to watch it (unwisely) as I was at the 24 hour mark of a fast. While watching this film when hungry is a form of cruel and unusual punishment, fortunately it’s as satisfying for the heart and mind as it is a feast for the eyes.

(photo credit: Magnolia Pictures)

I lived in Japan in 1999 and passed through Ginza station about a hundred times. I knew the shortcuts, where to stand on the track and how to make my commute connections. I was teaching English that year in Tokyo and while I made decent money, I wasn’t consulting the Michelin Guide for suggestions on where to eat. Had I flipped through it, I might have known that one of the world’s greatest sushi chefs ran a 10-seat sushi bar located in the bowels of Ginza station.

(photo credit: theatrelight.blogspot.com)

During my year in Tokyo I noticed how Japanese take incredible pride in their job. Unlike in the US, people are not defined by their jobs, but rather— they strive to add definition to their jobs. I found this to be true of everyone— the executives I taught English to, retail salespeople, janitors, even the “elevator girls” (women who pressed buttons in elevators all day). Their attitude is “I’m going to take pride in what I do and do it to the best of my ability”. And as a result, hands-down Japan has the best elevator girls in the world.

(photo credit: NY Times)

Jiro is no stranger to this philosophy. He is a devoted craftsman who strives to do his job better today than he did it yesterday. And fortunately for us, he chose sushi cheffing over the janitorial sciences. To Jiro, being the best sushi chef doesn’t mean having the best location, celebrity clientele or award-winning reputation. Having those things only deepens his obligation to be the best at what he does. Sure, buying the best fish or rice requires talent, but after a little training, anyone can do it. Jiro’s remarkable talent is in the details. He honors the integrity of every grain of rice with a heavy handed dose of vinegar. He won’t serve fish that doesn’t meet his standards and slices fish that does within millimeters of perfection. He tailors the size of sushi he makes for customers based on their mouth size (slightly smaller for women) and orients the fish on the platter differently for right and left-handed diners. Watching his hands dance while making sushi is like watching an ancient shadow puppet show as he gently taps, turns and twists the nigiri in his hands.

(photo credit: Magnolia Pictures)

Though the artistry of sushi-making is featured, this film is about much more than beautiful “food porn” images of sushi. It’s a story of family and devotion that explores Jiro’s role as father, master and role model. The filmmaker captures Jiro at the age of 85 with two sons and a handful of young apprentices working at his three-star Michelin award restaurants in Tokyo. One can’t help but wonder what will happen when “the inevitable” happens, but as Jiro shares with us in the film, 95% of the preparation happens before a piece of sushi is crafted. Having one son at the helm of his Roppongi Hills location and his eldest by his side in Ginza, Jiro has ensured the necessary preparations have been made for his sons to continue his legacy.

(photo credit: Magnolia Pictures)

Showtimes in NYC

Showtimes in LA

Official Jiro Dreams of Sushi website

Pantry Salmon Burgers

You know those people who throw great dinner parties? They create a warm atmosphere, invite a few interesting people over and then effortlessly serve casual but delicious food? Our friends Maggie and Jeremy do just that. It should come as no surprise they are great hosts. Maggie is the founder and brains behind Blackboard Eats and is both knowledgeable and passionate about excellent food experiences.

Back in January we were invited over for a barbeque at their home in LA. We had just returned from a trip around Asia and were craving a home-cooked meal. They served a gorgeous arugula salad with mint, torn burrata and pomegranate seeds (so pretty!) Jeremy’s famous hamburgers, and some salmon burgers for the non-meat eaters. 

I’ve tasted a lot of salmon burgers but these were unlike any other. I couldn’t quite figure out what made them so…zesty. But they also had a savory kick. I couldn’t figure out what was in these yummy burgers, so I asked Maggie where she got the recipe.

“I just combined ingredients that I had lying around that I thought would taste good together,” she said. No recipe, no cookbook, she just freestyled it and ended up with a unique, tasty salmon burger that I would eat any day of the week. 

Maggie emailed me her “recipe” later that week: chopped wild salmon with a mix of chopped onion, jalapeno, jalapeno flavored mustard (a whole bottle!), english muffin breadcrumbs, soy sauce — just enough to absorb the breadcrumbs.

I’m a firm believer that you can tell a lot about a person by looking their pantry/fridge. I’ve known Maggie to have things like truffle salt and fresh shiso leaves just lying around. So the jalapeno mustard and english muffin breadcrumbs didn’t come as a surprise to me. Maggie stocks her pantry to take simple good food to the next level with that extra little something. 

I started with the tail ends of some coho (silver) salmon. These ends are usually tough to cook as filets because they don’t cook evenly. The thin part gets overcooked and they’re not very presentable. That makes tail ends great for salmon burgers— not a bit goes to waste!

I removed the skin using my sharp fish filet knife. (If you don’t have one just use a long, non-serrated knife). The flexibility of the fish knife helps me navigate that fine line where the flesh and skin meet. I started at the tail end and used one hand to pull the skin taught, which provides some tension that makes it easier to cut as close to the skin as possible. 

Once finished there wasn’t too much flesh left on the skin. I wasn’t concerned with the bits I didn’t get because I reserve the skins for another use (post to come!). I sprinkled these skins with some salt, wrapped them in saran wrap and stashed them in the freezer for another meal (hint: I might broil them into crispy salmon skin for sushi rolls or salad garnish)

Back to the salmon burgers. I cut up the flesh and mixed in my miscellaneous pantry ingredients. I drained as much liquid as possible from the jalapenos and ate about half of them before adding them to the mix. (I think I’ve found my new favorite form of pickle snack!!)

I moulded them into burgers (adding as much matzoh meal as needed to bind them) and then put them on my grill plate under the broiler to simulate the barbeque. After just 2 mins on each side, I had these:

They wouldn’t win any food porn competitions, but boy were they tasty. 

I confess these never made it between two buns. I ate them with a fork and a splash of lemon for dinner and again the next day as a post-workout snack (lots of lean protein!). They turned out so well that I’m sad I didn’t have friends over to enjoy them. But for next time I have company, I can imagine these will be great on a ciabatta with some greens and avocado. I’ll have to buy some more pickled jalapenos so I can recreate them. Or maybe I’ll try again with the Vegemite…the possibilities are endless!

TEDxManhattan 2012

A year of work culminated in yesterday’s TEDxManhattan 2012, Changing the Way We Eat and I am so proud to have been a part of the organizing team— especially when I read a review like this.

(photo credit: Rachel Greenberger)

Throughout the year the four of us met at each other’s apartments on a rotational basis to talk about the event. Each meeting involved moderate to heavy red wine consumption, cheese platters and various gluten-free delights. 

Early on we discussed dates (not Valentine’s Day weekend like last year) venues (let’s step it up- hello Times Center!), caterers (Mary Cleaver, naturally) and hosts (Laurie David, encore!). Once fall 2011 rolled around, we honed in on the details— speakers and sponsors, musical acts and applicants, films and font sizes. 

One thing we were very excited about was the logo that would appear on stage. Every TEDx event does something different and it was our opportunity to be creative and do something that incorporated the sustainable food and farming message to which TEDxManhattan is devoted. We had the bright idea of growing our logo. We had this idea about one month before the conference. We needed someone who was creative, with a green thumb, and who could turn such a tall order around in the dead of winter. There was only one woman who could do this: urban greenscaper, Frieda Lim.

We agreed that the process ought to be documented and as the video/film rep on the org committee, I volunteered to make a short film about it. But between the holidays and travel schedules, Frieda and I were left with less than a week to turn this around. And here is the short film we created.

I am accustomed to wearing many hats. I am a director, producer and occasional shooter. But editor? My favorite editors were busy on jobs and there was no time to waste, so I dove right in and immersed myself in 72 hours of hunkered down editing- the kind where I emailed my editor friends with questions every few hours when I wasn’t watching youtube vidoes that generous nerds make about the most basic (and obscure!) final cut pro functions. 

For the first 24 hours I ate whatever food I could take out and eat quickly. I had no time to think, much less cook. But after a day of pizza for lunch and a burrito for dinner, my body was craving something clean. It wanted brain food. With my fridge full of salmon, I had no excuse to be getting takeout. I remembered a very quick recipe I’d seen in Food & Wine magazine that involved whole grain mustard and chives. I had mustard and scallions- close enough.

I fired up the oven, did my normal quick defrost in a cold water bath, then slathered the fish with the mustard/scallion/olive oil mixture. I baked at 400ºF for 5 mins, then broiled for 5 mins and voilà! A crispy, savory delicious piece of fish. Actually, three pieces— enough to eat for lunch and dinner the next day.

After a total prep to mouth time of 20 minutes, I had cooked this fish, sauteed lacinto kale and poured a glass of red (for uh, inspiration?)

I ate and edited (hey…I was on a deadline!) and my body and brain were so much happier for it. 

I might even start wearing my editor hat more often…

Anonymous asked: August 2011 We caught king salmon in Alaska and they were packaged professionally. We noticed the color has changed from red to almost white - is this typical or is the fish bad?

Was the fish vacuum packed?  Unless the seal has broken and the fish is in contact with air, it should still be good. The color fades the longer it’s in the freezer but isn’t indication the fish is bad. We’ve been told vacuum packed fish kept in the freezer is best during the first year, but safe to eat for two years. I’ve noticed our fish tastes “fishier” after the first year, but it’s still delicious. Thanks for your question, and enjoy!

The One That Got Away…

Work has a terrible way of interfering with holidays, which is why I’m not in Alaska right now. It’s also why I haven’t cooked anything in a few weeks or gotten around to trying to make gravlax. (That experiment is coming soon, I promise!)

It was almost this time last year that we were in Craig, Alaska for our second annual fishing trip. My mother and step-dad are there now for a 5 day trip to beautiful Shelter Cove. They’re catching up with Owner Dave, Fishcutters Taylor and Matt and of course Chef Neil.

They’re also catching up with the fish. This is a good thing since we’re relying on them to keep our freezer stocked this year!

Apparently the silvers are biting hard and fast. Last year we were on the water from 6:00am to 4:00pm. Most days we couldn’t fill the 6 fish quota per person. This morning Mum and Bernie caught their 12 fish limit by 9:30am. It’s worth noting they are not hardcore fisherpeople— they are almost always the last to leave the dock, usually around 7:45 or 8:00am.

The one that got away: 120lb halibut

When they’re not fishing for salmon, they head into the ocean for halibut. Halibuts don’t put up much of a fight— they sit on the ocean floor and take the bait. Then the struggle is bringing them to the surface. The 200-300 foot journey can take a while. Most fishermen don a special halibut belt which has a notch where you can hook your fishing rod for more leverage. While not a fashionable accessory, these belts come in handy when there’s a particularly big (therefore heavy) fish at the other end of the line. 

This year this region in Alaska has changed the limits on halibut. Any halibut over 100lbs must be thrown back. While I’m sure this angers some fishermen, it makes us really happy to hear. The main reason is because the big halibut are the mamas, the breeders, the ones who keep producing more halibut (they lay between half a million to four million eggs annually). They weigh a lot (sometimes 200-300lbs with the biggest on record weighing 459lbs) and although they’re prized as a trophy fish and look good hanging on the scale, their flesh is tough and not really “good eatin’”. 

Sometimes there’s a good reason for the one that got away…

Lemongrass BBQ Salmon

I haven’t had a barbeque for the past 18 years and to an ex-pat Aussie, this is the equivalent of living without a kidney. You can get by without it but you envy anyone who has both.

I moved to NY 12 years ago and always seemed to find apartments in buildings where it was illegal to have bbqs on the roof or fire escape. Mind you, these were the types of buildings where the thought of spending any time on either, even in the event of fire, was frightening.

And so I would get my fix of grilled meals during summer visits back in Australia, where friends and family cook virtually every meal on the barbie. Even during off-season visits, my aunt (or more recently her twenty-something sons) would pop outside with a coat on to grill and duck back in with a deliciously charred roast, chicken, fish or steak.

I haven’t found many things that satisfy my love for barbeque. Why not pop into a bbq joint and get my fix you ask? You see it’s a bit more complicated than that, for I find myself in love with the act of barbequing, perhaps even more than its by-products. I love the smell, the smoke and the perfect black lines branded into the food. I love the pace of a bbq afternoon or evening and how food cycles on and off the grill. And I love how if one waits patiently by the grill like a stray dog, there’s always a hot tasty morsel that escapes the tongs that’s fit for nibbling.

I have longed for a barbeque of my own for quite some time. And since getting a house in the suburbs complete with a backyard barbeque is not part of my 10 year plan, I thought I’d better shut up and do something about it. 

Enter the Le Creuset cast iron grill pan. It’s smooth on one side and has grooves on the other. My pal Antonio at the Broadway Panhandler talked me into getting it in the dead of winter and promised me it would become my go-to pan/tray/gadget come summertime. I still wonder how he knew…since I hadn’t shared my bbq withdrawal stories with him.

And so I tested it out a couple of weekends ago. It was one of those hot perfect days for grilling. I hadn’t managed to score an invite to anyone’s home with a real barbeque. Yet I had some lemongrass stalks in the fridge and was keen to experiment. I also had enough time to marinate some fish, something I rarely think to do.  I mixed up some south asian flavors and popped the grill pan in the oven to begin my NYC simulated bbq. 

What happened next was magical.  I opened the oven door and a haze of bbq smoke gradually cleared to reveal fish with the perfect black markings of a true barbeque. So what if it set off the smoke detector? It wasn’t anything some open windows and the ceiling fan couldn’t take care of. Amidst my husband’s deft juggling of our air circulation, I nibbled on a morsel right off the grill. It was hot, moist and delicious.

So now I can finally say “Come to our place for a BBQ!” Surely a little beeping and smoke inhalation won’t put you off…

Lemongrass BBQ Salmon over Bean-thread Noodles

2lbs wild salmon, skinned, fileted and cut into big bite chunks

1/2 package bean-thread noodles

2 lebanese cucumbers, julinenned

2 carrots, julienned

1 cup cilantro

1 lime

Sauce

2 stalks lemongrass, centers only, smashed

1 shallot, diced

1 clove garlic, grated

1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated

1 chili (birds eye or thai is best, I used serrano)

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon oil (neutral is best, I used grapeseed)

Step 1: Combine all ingredients in large shallow bowl or dish (note: non metallic), add fileted salmon. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Step 2: Preheat grill pan (grooved side up) in oven at 450ºF for 10 minutes. Be sure it’s been pre-seasoned with a little olive oil so the fish won’t stick.

Step 3: Julienne cucumber, carrot and prep cilantro and lime for garnish.

Step 4: Add marinated salmon chunks to the grill pan. Close oven door but keep an eye on it. Turn after 1-2 minutes, depending on size of chunks.

Step 5: Add bean-thread noodles to boiling water, cook for 3 minutes then drain in colander and cool in ice bath (or under cold running water).

Step 6: Assemble noodles, veggies and salmon in bowl. Top with additional marinade.

“FISH” featuring chef Jon Shook (LA’s Animal, Son of a Gun)

FISH is part of the Character Project (USA Network + RSA Films). Directed by RJ Cutler, it follows LA chef Jon Shook through a day of fishing and discovery, failure and creation. 

This is inspiring for anybody who is familiar with the creative process, whether you like fish or not.

What % of Americans want their GMO salmon labeled?

From MSNBC Health poll

Which would you buy: Atlantic Salmon or Atlantic Salmon?

The first genetically modified animal soon to be approved for human consumption is the “Atlantic” Salmon.

How will you know it’s a genetically modified fish? You won’t. That’s because the FDA does not require GMO foods to be labeled as such. The only label it will have is “Atlantic Salmon”.

There are valid concerns that I won’t go into here about about GMO fish. Are they safe to eat? Have they been adequately tested? Will they pose a threat to wild fish if they escape? Read Paul Greenberg’s great Q&A in Good Magazine for some revealing answers.

While I can’t stop AquaBounty from developing their fish or selling them, I believe I have a right to know what I’m buying. And I’m not alone.

95% of Americans want labeling of genetically modified (GMO) seafood

50% of Americans say they would not eat GMO seafood

So if virtually all Americans want labels and half won’t buy it if it’s been genetically modified, there’s only one reason not to label: it will hurt sales. But what’s their formal argument against labels? 

“If there is no material difference between a genetically modified food and its traditional counterpart, it would be misbranding to label the product as different. The FDA review of AquAdvantage has determined that it is equivalent in every way to traditional Atlantic Salmon.

AquaBounty believes the product should be labeled “Atlantic salmon.” The bottom line on labeling is that it must be truthful and in not misleading to the consumer”

  -CEO of AquaBounty Technologies Ronald Stotish

I won’t get into how a GMO fish that’s got the DNA of two salmon species, combined with a growth gene from an eel-like fish to make it grow twice as fast in half the time is “equivalent in every way” to a natural atlantic salmon. I’ll leave that to the scientists.

And even if scientists agree there’s “no material difference between genetically modified salmon and its traditional counterpart”, then why not just put it on the label? After all, they do it with milk (albeit in a ridiculous way). Have you ever noticed the disclaimer on milk packaging that accompanies any milk that claims to be rBST/rBGH free?

“The FDA has determined that no significant difference has been shown between milk derived from rBGH supplemented and non rBGH and supplemented cows”

Hormone-free milk is allowed to be clearly labeled as such as long as the FDA can include a statement about hormone-free milk. With this disclaimer, the FDA kindly informs me that the hormones I’m choosing not to buy don’t really effect the milk (or me once I drink it). This empowers me to do my own research and decide whether I want my milk avec ou sans hormones. 

Why doesn’t the FDA agree to label GMO salmon provided it includes a similarly awkwardly worded disclaimer? At least we’d be able to read between the lines and make an informed decision about what to feed ourselves and our families. Increasingly Americans are seeking knowledge about where our food comes from after years of disconnection. That the FDA would conceal such a fact about our food at a time when more and more people are trying to source food mindfully and responsibly is disappointing to say the least.

Since the FDA has no plans to require labeling, any mandate for labels would happen at the state level. On May 3, the California Assembly Health Committee approved bill AB 88 that would require labeling for fish sold in that state. They are among 13 states that support mandatory labeling of GMO foods.

If you’re concerned about the labeling of GMO salmon, write to your Senators and Representatives here. It’s easy and only takes a minute.

Quest for a New Knife: Kyoto’s 400 year old Aritsugu

One reason I went to Nishiki Market in Kyoto was to make the pilgrimage all foodies make to eat things we can’t eat at home.

Like fresh roasted chestnuts

osembe (rice crackers)

and oden (fish cakes)

But the other reason I went was to check out the world famous knife shop: Aritsugu. 

Here we gave our stomachs a break and let our eyes do the feasting. Aristugu has been making knives since 1560 and is currently operated by the 18th generation. The business got its start making swords for the Imperial House, then shifted their business to kitchen knives as the need for swords diminished and peace/delicious food prevailed.

Nowadays the brand attracts connoisseurs and chefs alike. Some of the knives go for thousands of dollars each which might seem absurd. But once you see the hand-made craftsmanship, I could see how someone would think they’re worth it.

While I didn’t have thousands to drop on a knife, I hadn’t bought anything on the trip and wanted a special souvenir from our trip to Japan. Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons probably wouldn’t last forever. But this carbon steel knife sure would. They even have a guy who carves your name into the blade— it was meant to be!

So now it was just a matter of choosing a knife that I’d get a lot of use out of. Naturally I was interested in fish knives, and recruited this young man to help. He showed me all sorts of knives— some specialized in slicing paper-thin sushi while others expertly pulverized fish bones. Some were for big fish, others for small. I’d almost forgotten that this was a country that eats their body weight in fish each year. The selection was overwhelming and I quickly realized I was in way over my head. Since I already have a filet knife and a couple of great chefs knives, I figured I might go for something uniquely Japanese (ok, Asian)— the vegetable cleaver.

Excited that I’d found my souvenir that would last as long as my new marriage (forever) I started fantasizing about what I’d have engraved in the blade. Before heading over to the man with the chisel, I ran through basic care with my sales guy.

Me: Do I need to sharpen with wet stone?

(yes, I am one of those people who drops articles when speaking English with non-native English speakers in hopes it makes me easier to understand)

Him: Yes, wet stone.

Me: Ok. And wash by hand?

Him: Yes, wash by hand.

Me: Ok. Then wipe dry?

Him: Yes, wipe dry.

Me: Ok, great!

Him: And then hair dryer.

Me: Hair dryer?

Him: Yes, hair dryer. Please dry with hair dryer.

My mind started racing. “Hair dryer”? What rhymes with “hair dryer” that he could be trying to say instead of “hair dryer”? I tried to clarify in the only way I knew how— acting out using a hair dryer. He nodded. I laughed, then sighed. Then I put down the knife. I take good care of my knives, but there’s no way I’m busting out a hair dryer for this puppy when I don’t even use one on my hair.  My sales guy smiled and bowed. Then he returned the vegetable cleaver to its case and bowed again.

So this is a long-winded way of saying that I went all the way to Japan and all I got was this husband…

(note: actual husband feet at wedding!)